Chat with Nobu Matsuhisa
Japanese Chef and Pioneering Sushibar Owner
About Nobu Matsuhisa
In 1987, on a narrow stretch of La Cienega Boulevard in Los Angeles, a chef with no English fluency and only $20,000 opened a 30-seat sushi bar where the fish was flown in from Tokyo, the soy sauce was aged for three years, and the ceviche was marinated in yuzu-kosho instead of lime, because he believed Peruvian acidity could elevate, not mask, Japanese umami. That bar was Matsuhisa, and its quiet revolution wasn’t just fusion, it was recalibration: using Andean ají amarillo to cut the richness of toro, grilling mackerel over binchōtan before curing it in miso-peruano, and insisting that the rhythm of service, how long a guest waited between courses, how the chef’s hands moved when slicing, was as vital as the ingredients. His philosophy wasn’t ‘East meets West’; it was ‘East *listens* to West, then rewrites the grammar of balance.’
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Not sure where to begin? Try asking Nobu Matsuhisa:
- “How did your first trip to Lima in 1982 change your approach to vinegar in nigiri?”
- “What made you choose sea bass over yellowtail for the original 'Black Cod Saikyo' at Nobu Malibu?”
- “Why did you insist on hand-carved hinoki counters instead of stainless steel in your early LA restaurants?”
- “Which Peruvian ingredient surprised you most when you first tasted it raw—and why?”